Showing posts with label Attic insulation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Attic insulation. Show all posts

How to install additional attic batt insulation


On today’s article about how to install additional attic batt insulation I’ll be talking about what’s the best equipment to use and how to use it, how to find out when too much insulation is too much and what tools you will need to pull this off at home. Attic batt insulation comes in handy when you’re trying to upgrade your insulation to the latest standard, which is R-49. Most old houses have an insulation with an R-19 value, depending on the area you live in your insulation might have a different R-value. Using an insulation calculator would be best in this situation so you know which R-value you’ll have to achieve.

Attic insulation necessary equipment

When working with batt insulation, some form of protection equipment is necessary because of possible attic insulation dangers and because taking extra safety measures is always recommended. So, what you’ll need in this case are a long sleeved shirt, gloves, some form of eye protection and a dust mask - that’s it. Attic insulation doesn’t require too much protection but it is recommended you wear some, even if it comes in its basic form.

How much more insulation do I need ?

I’ve provided you with two simple to read graphics below, one is a state map and the other is a chart containing the recommended R-values for each zone ( marked with 1-6 on the map ).

map_climate_zones

Below you can see the chart for the recommended R-values for each zone.

chart_new_construction

Using some simple math we’re able to immediately calculate how much more insulation we’ll be needing, using this simple formula ( take into consideration this formula only works for batt insulation ).

Let’s say we’d like to achieve an R-value of 49 using only batt insulation ( which has an average R-value of 3.2 ), the way I’d do it would be like this:

49 / 3.2 = 15,31 ( the average thickness in centimeters of batt insulation )

15,31 / 2.5 = 6,1 inches. ( average thickness transformed into inches )

The result - we’ll need a thickness of 6.1″ to be able to achieve an R-49 using only batt insulation. Now, taking into consideration we’ll be using batt insulation over our existing insulation ( average R-value is 19 ) we’ll only need …

49-19 = 30; ( the difference between the two R-values )

30/3.2 = 9,375; ( dividing the difference with the average R-value of batt insulation )

9,375 / 2.5 = 3.75″. ( transforming it into inches )

So we’ll be needing an additional 3.75″ of batt insulation over our existing insulation - I hope this was pretty clear to everyone.

How do I install additional attic batt insulation ?

First make sure you’re going to use an unfaced batt ( one that comes without a foil layer ) so the insulation doesn’t trap even more moisture in the ceiling. Start laying the batts perpendicular to the joists and make sure they don’t compress the already existing insulation.

When laying the batts make sure not to cover can lights unless they are rated for contact with insulation and to use cardboard to keep soffit vents open. All the gaps and cracks between the living area and the attic should be filled using either caulk or expanding foam.

That’s it - it’s not rocket science. For any questions, feel free to contact me using the contact form at the top of the page.

Commonly overlooked attic insulation dangers


One of the most commonly overlooked things when dealing with insulation is the health risk. Attic insulation is dangerous no matter what, it’s actually one of the most commonly encountered factors in lung cancer.

Most of the homes built between the 1930 and the 1960 were insulated using fiberglass which was thought at that time to be the best type of insulation, boy they were wrong. One thing that’s actually weird is that fiberglass was never approved to be used as insulating material for the attic yet it was the most commonly encountered insulating material. Because of it’s nature fiberglass is actually being compared to asbestos to a certain level regarding the diseases it may cause.

Mold or fungus, the nasty greenish looking things that you commonly see in attics, so common yet so underestimated. Besides the fact that mold can damage the structural integrity of the building by eating away at the wood and drywall it can also cause severe breathing problems. Although insulated attics aren’t usually a good environment for fungus growth, in some circumstances where dust get trapped in the attic mold can occur. Dust alone isn’t the single contributing factor to the appearance of mold there are others as well, like a humid climate and moisture.

Asbestos has to be one of the worst insulating materials that exist on the market. Because of it’s structure, asbestos was considered at a certain point one of the best thermal insulation materials until they discovered the diseases it can cause.

Constructed of microscopic fibers, it can become airborne when disturbed and inhaled into the lungs. Once in the lungs they can cause numerous types of serious health problems including:

  • Asbestos is a serious, non-cancerous disease of the lungs that is caused by inhaling asbestos fibers. The lung tissue is irritated and scarring occurs, making it hard for oxygen to get into the blood. There is no effective treatment for asbestosis.
  • Lung Cancer causes the most deaths related to asbestos exposure.
  • Mesothelioma a rare form of cancer that is found in the membrane of the lung, chest, abdomen, and heart and, in almost all cases, is linked to exposure to asbestos.

Short info about insulation on attic doors


It’s a well known fact that attic doors are one of the biggest energy leaking areas in an insulated house. A proper insulation on attic doors should be taken into consideration if you’re keen on saving energy as I’m sure most of our readers are. An attic can have up to 3 access points, such as: an attic hatch, a pull-down stairs or a knee-wall door; usually no one takes into account the importance of these access points when insulating thus leaving a large hole in the thermal barrier between the attic and the living space.

The attic hatch serves as an attic access point for many houses, yet it’s one of the most inefficiently insulated attic access points in the house. This gap in our attic heat barrier increases heat loss during the winters and heat gain during the summer. Imagine this - a gap of only 1 inch wide can potentially leak almost the same amount of air that a typical bedroom heating duct can provide.

The pull-down stairs are yet another type of attic access that aren’t quite insulation friendly as they should be. The pull-down stairs roughly fit in a gap that leaves some extraneous space for the air to flow by and that’s a big no no for anyone that’s looking to save money on those heating bills.
If the gap is smallish (less than an inch), caulk could be used as a sealant. If a larger opening exists though non-expanding foam or a backer rod is what you should try in conjunction with caulk. Expanding foam could also be used but be extremely careful when using it as it might stop the stairs from opening properly.

How to install cellulose attic insulation - the proper way


Today’s article is going to be about how to install cellulose attic insulation. We’ve already discussed about why cellulose insulation is a better choice than fiberglass insulation - if you haven’t read that article, now is the time to do it ( Types of attic insulation ). Just as a short side note you should know that one of the reasons why insulators prefer cellulose is because it’s made out of recycled newspapers and only has chemicals to make it fire retardant. Besides, cellulose insulation doesn’t cause rashes as the fiberglass one does. So without too much talk let’s get started with today’s article on how to install cellulose attic insulation.

The first thing you’ll want to do is to place some strips of plywood down the length of your attic, these pieces of plywood will serve as a walkway for later on. If you’re planning on leaving some spare space to use for storage remember to place some plywood there as well so you don’t accidentally step through the ceiling.

The second thing you should do is measure the length and width of the attic, the measurements will help you determine what thickness your cellulose insulation should be and how much you need to buy. Using the formula provided on the back of the insulation packages and some simple math calculations you’ll be able to tell how much cellulose insulation you need.

Next, we’ll have to purchase the insulation and some special protection equipment, like dust masks and goggles. After you’ve made all the necessary purchases, head on to a insulation blower rental place and make sure you understand how to use it before even thinking of trying it.

To help prevent the foam from drifting into the house we’ll need to use a cardboard wall around the access door. There isn’t a specific type of cardboard you should be using here any regular cardboard will do.

Next, you’ll have to taple soffit vent chutes on the inside walls of the soffit vent to keep the insulation from blowing out of the attic. Surround the heat ducts and anything else that generates heat with metal flashing to keep the cellulose from getting too hot.
Using the insulation blower start at the farthest corner of the attic and work your way toward the attic access door. Be careful not to step off the plywood walkway at any time and also remember to constantly measure the thickness of the insulation as you go along to make sure it’s installed evenly.

Attic insulation and vapor barriers: a safe combination ?


Attic insulation and vapor barriers aren’t a safe combination for everyone to use safely within their homes. The reason why this is debatable is because vapor barriers can in some cases become a problem instead of a solution.
Having moisture within your house walls can lead to some serious problems. In theory, the purpose of vapor barriers is to keep the moisture away from your insulation. The mixture between moist and insulation can lead to rot and lose of R-value which will eventually lead to a faulty insulation with a lower R-value. The actual problem isn’t moist but the condense that creates within your walls. The condensed water inside your walls will in the best case scenario freeze and stay like that, worst case scenario you’ll end up with a stained ceiling or wall.

Attic insulations usually come pre-equipped with vapor barriers to keep the moisture out, however this doesn’t mean it’s fail proof and leakages can occur where the facings meet. One of the most problematic things with attic insulation and vapor barriers is how to properly combine them and leave out the moisture.

The phenomenon that usually occurs is that during the winters, you’re going to have a constant flow of hot air inside your house. The hot air will rise and it’s a good practice to let some of the moisture into your attic. As we know it hot air means moisture, moisture leads to rot and rot leads to faulty attic insulation which isn’t a really good thing.
Attic insulation and vapor barriers aren’t really necessary although useful in some cases - it mostly depends on the area you live in. If you’re living in an area with an average temperature of above 0 degrees Celsius the combination of attic insulation and vapor barriers isn’t necessary.

Commonly encountered types of attic insulation


If you’ve got so far as to find out what types of attic insulation are available I’m sure you’re already aware that attic insulation is your first line of defense when it comes to dealing with heat loss. Whether you’re interested in keeping your house warm and cozy during the harsh winter nights or keep it at a constant temperature during the hot summer days, attic insulation is the cheapest and the most effective first step towards a better house.

Currently there are only two types of attic insulation available to the public: blown-in or rolled-in insulation also called Batts or Blankets. Out of these two types of attic insulation at the time being there are only two viable and cost effective solutions and those are: fiberglass or cellulose insulation. Out of the two solutions for attic insulation only one of them is a safe bet and that one’s the cellulose insulation.

Fiberglass attic insulation

Despite the fact it’s not the best choice for attic insulation it is however very popular. Most houses are insulated with fiberglass and most of these have reported a relatively small or non-existent decrease in heating bills. This happened because fiberglass attic insulation is one of the types of attic insulation that looses it’s R-values over the winter season; so you might experience a gain from it for the first 2-3 winters but after that it’s pretty much gone.

Cellulose attic insulation

At the opposite pole we’ve got the cellulose insulation. Cellulose insulation comes in four meter blankets that are manually added on your attic’s floor as on opposite to the fiberglass insulation which is usually sprayed it.

One of the main advantages of cellulose insulation is the possibility to remove or replace it if the case requires it; besides that cellulose insulation also acts as a blanket and doesn’t loose R-value during the winter season.

I’m sure that by know you’ve figured out on your own which of the two types of attic insulation is the best and at the same time suitable for your house.

The basics of attic insulation


Attic insulation is a commonly encountered procedure but nevertheless requires some basic knowledge on how to perform it. I’m sure that by now if you’ve had the chance to read our articles about The advantages of home attic insulation and Commonly encountered types of attic insulation and if you haven’t you should. Now, leaving that aside let’s move on and start considering the basics of attic insulation.

What you need to know about the basics of attic insulation

1. Attic insulation helps increase the comfort of your home, reduces energy bills and at the same time increases the overall value of your house.

2. There are two types of attic insulation: sprayed-in and rolled-in; the sprayed-in is the most popular choice whilst the other is the best solution.

3. If you’re serious about insulating, then acquiring the best spray foam insulation equipment is a must; for rolled-in foam insulation I suggest hiring a specialized contractor as it’s a bit trickier.

4. Attic insulation is your house’s first and cheapest line of defense against the ever changing temperatures of the nature.

5. There aren’t too many tips on basics of attic insulation that one should know, just remember to keep on the safe side using proper equipment and asking for advice at first.

There are many insulating contractors that will certainly give you a free custom tailored quota to suit your needs.

The advantages of home attic insulation


Attic insulation is one of the few things every proud householder should do. The purpose of attic insulation is to not only help you reduce heating or cooling costs but at the same time increase comfort. Most people think attic insulation is only good when trying to keep the house warmer in winter and unfortunately not many realize that it also helps during the hot summer days keeping the cooler air in-doors and the hotter one outside.

Most people don’t realize that home attic insulation is actually a sound investment for the future because it degrades very slow and it will make up for its costs in a couple of years. The main purpose of attic insulation is to act as a barrier between the outside and the inside, thus ensuring the best temperature is inside.

Home attic insulation is a cost effective insulation - sure you’ll be paying a few extra bucks now but when the winter / summer comes you’ll notice the difference on your heating bills. I’m sure that anyone that has lived in a house with a non-insulated attic experiences colder winters and hotter summers. Still, there are people that think that attic insulation isn’t necessary and that they can live with a sub-par or no insulation at all - I agree to a certain level but if you want what’s best for your house you’ll go with the best attic insulation contractors immediately.

Another advantage of home attic insulation is that it adds up to the overall value of the house. Having a valid proof of your reduced heating / cooling costs will surely convince any buyer that your house is worth the investment. Let’s not even mention the fact you’ll be enjoying a nicer and better experience when living in an insulated house.

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